Tehran in 1978 was a modern, thriving metropolis with a distinctly western feel, illustrated by a surprising number of young ladies in miniskirts. With picturesque mountains in the background, it was easy to find your way around. The roads were laid out at 90°, meaning that if you were going uphill, you were going north, to the left to the west, and so on.
Our hotel was in the north of the city, with our favourite hangout – the Embassy Hotel on Avenue Queen Elizabeth – just a short walk downhill. The bar in this hotel was memorable: a large square construction from which barmen dispensed beer out of barrels contained in ice, whilst customers sat on stools on all four sides. This bar would not have been out of place in Chicago or indeed any other US city.
It was on this visit that I was given a lesson in bartering. I had been warned that, as this was the Middle East, I should be prepared to barter prices for goods, but, in the event, I was still taken by surprise.